This edition seeks to show the best of the main tourist regions of Panama in aspects that have developed in an outstanding way. For this reason, when you think of Chiriquí today, it is not only because of the beautiful nature that holds, but also because of the exponential development of its gastronomy and culinary creation process using fresh and organic products from the region. For this reason, when Chef Cuquita Arias de Calvo suggested learning about the organic and innovative proposal that Chef Rolando Chamorro from Hacienda Mamecillo has created, it was clear that he is a great representative of everything that is developed at a gastronomic level in this region of Chiriqui. Especially, because programs like Disney+’s “Restaurants at the End of the World”, which is also broadcast on National Geographic channel, have shown interest in his process of making innovative organic recipes. In this article, we speak with this Panamanian Chef about the development of gastronomy in Chiriquí and how it positively impacts tourism.
How the idea of being a Chef and making your way in the competitive gastronomic environment of Boquete and Tierras Altas began?
“Since my childhood I have always been interested in cooking with my mother and grandmother, but I never really thought I would end up working as a Chef, I have dedicated to adventure tourism and on tours I had to cook for clients and something I have always wanted is to impress them with the flavors and products that we have in Panama. I never served sandwiches, we have always been prepared meals that in some cases I cooked in front of the customers. Later, together with my wife Gabriella, we acquired a 3-hectare farm in Boquete with the idea of starting a family and providing them with organic and chemical-free food. Hacienda Mamecillo was born there, almost 12 years after this incredible adventure. One thing led to another to the point where we are today delivering authentic experiences and serving farm-to-table lunches and dinners to the highest standards. I do not consider myself a competitive person, I believe in synergy, we all have something to share and contribute.”
How are the organic recipes you make on the farm you own different from the rest of the regional offer?
“One of the most important differences is that our ingredients grow a few steps from the kitchen of Hacienda Mamecillo, our animals are raised freely and with good management to guarantee quality and unique flavor. Another difference is definitely the mix of flavors and the way to use it, seeking to break the traditional scheme, thanks to the fact that I did not study to be a chef’, I have no paradigms of how to use the products, I only used trial and error to get those dishes.”
How has the recognition you have received internationally been for being included in a Disney+ reality show? What impacted the presenter the most about her creation process?
“Definitely, being included in the “Restaurants At The End Of The World” program and being the premiere episode of the show has been something of great pride for us, not only because of the exposure that Hacienda Mamecillo was given, but also because I was able to represent Panama. The acceptance has been incredible, people write to us from all over the world congratulating us and with words of inspiration, hearing that we are on the bucket list of many people around the world feels very good and encourages us to continue with our life project. The host of the show Kristen was impressed first of all by seeing how direct and fresh our products are and that we really apply the philosophy of cooking with seasonal products, to see that we don’t have a fancy kitchen but still manage to connect and impress our diners. One of the comments that I liked from her was that to create good food you don’t need to have fancy equipment, but you have to have passion and love for what you do.”
How do you see the current situation of gastronomy in Panama, and what can be done to make it more accessible?
“Currently, I feel that gastronomy in Panama is getting stronger each day, we have a very good offer at all levels, from fondas in the country side that shares those local flavors of each province, to super luxurious restaurants in Panama City. More than making it accessible, I think that we should value what a lot of chefs and restaurants in Panama are doing and dare to try that offer and not compare prices with other destinations in the region, since there are many factors that influence it.”
In Boquete, gastronomy is one of the most promoted and vital tourist products to experience in the region. What does this region have that gives an advantage over the rest of the country?
“Boquete has definitely positioned itself as a gastronomic destination, with a privileged mountain climate and an offer of outdoor activities and exceptional adventure, lack of traffic and being able to move from one place to another in a short time is definitely an advantage for the destination.”
How do you see Panamanian gastronomy in the mid term future within the national and international arena?
“Super promising, there are brilliant minds willing to represent Panama at the highest level. Every day we see new places offering much more elaborate food, at first it was in Panama City and Boquete especially, but it is already seen that this offer has been growing to other provinces, just as it happened with coffee in Panama, it is happening in gastronomic. The more chefs dare to break the traditional scheme and bring those authentic flavors of Panama both nationally and internationally, they will encourage and inspire the new generations to try it and leave those absurd comments that the life of a chef is super difficult. It consumes time, you are going to be tied up, but as far as I know there is no job that does not demand time and passion. As a good Panamanian saying “Sarna with pleasure does not itch and if it itches it does not mortify” (famous local saying).”
If you had the opportunity to create and execute a tourism project related to gastronomy, what would you propose?
“It would definitely be in Chiriqui, the Puerto Pedregal area has all the potential to be the Amador Chiricano with incredible connectivity by air, road or sea. With fresh products of all kinds. In Puerto Pedregal there is an area called the sugar mill, it is located on the water’s edge and is public land, it would be great to have a super modern “food market”, with different restaurants, as well as vendors selling fruits, vegetables, etc. Of course, it needs to have a striking architecture for both nationals and foreigners. It would be the perfect recreation spot for families and an excellent source of income for everyone in the area.”
