Gastronomy for Chef Roberto Richa and owner of 5inco restaurant began as a child, although at the age of 17 he really began to cook doing internships working for different restaurants and Chefs in Panama. This professional path was mixed with different courses that he took, among them, at Elena Hernandez’s Culinary Academy of Panama. Seeing that in Panama being a chef was considered more of a “hobby” than a professional career, he decides to continue his journey in Argentina where opportunities arise that allow him to stay and develop his talent. Upon returning to Panama, he begins to be part of what he called the “new culinary school” where there is a great camaraderie among Chefs and selfless support to develop what is today one of the most innovative industries in Panama: gastronomy.
How are Lebanese and Spanish influenced culinary dishes different from Panamanian ones?
“Chefs create dishes influenced by others, the difference is that in my case the influence is marked a little more by the family part. Panama itself is already a fusion of races and flavors from around the world. An example is the Dim Sum that was for tea time, but Panamanians adapted as a breakfast, and it has a different flavor from others, thanks to the Cantonese culture that came to Panama and merged with the local flavors. The fact that in our country there are cultures such as the Afro-descendant, the Asian, the European migrants who were already here in Panama, the Lebanese emigrants, all this means that one can adapt it and it becomes easier to create new saucers. For example, I lived in Argentina for 10 years and I adapt food plates to that style of cooking there, I was Chef at the Brazilian Embassy and I adapted things from that country. I ended up absorbing everything I learned and started to use when creating dishes as a daily routine.”
How has flavors from Panama’s inside country influenced the dishes you now prepare?
“Well, one of the biggest influences I have is Nance’s wood-smoke, that has influenced other dishes. An example is the carbonara creole that we are making, where we try to use backyard eggs from a hen that is well fed, helping to make the yolk much more orange. We are also using pork that was smoked with nance firewood that gives it a much more smoky character than the traditional Italian version, ground cheese on the top, and also some coriander when preparating. All these things are product of the influence of the interior of Panama in one way or another, in the end one tries to represent and be inspire.”
What is the legacy you want to leave in Panamanian gastronomy and how everything you are doing helps make the experience of Panama more rewarding for local and foreign visitors?
“There is a long way to go for that, but I think we are putting it together and building it. The idea is that people know who we are, what the concept and style are, as well as constantly reinventing ourselves. The legacy is not only mine, it is that of all the Chefs in Panama today, in some way or another, they are building Panamanian gastronomy, which does not necessarily have to be pigeon peas, chorizo tableño, tamale, tortillas, cilantro. Panamanian gastronomy is precisely a fusion of flavors, and today there are a lot of restaurants and colleagues doing excellent work. Always adding and creating products and experiences. And the latter is why we work daily, creating experiences that allow each person to leave a legacy, because in the end if you have a good experience you will remember that one way or the other.”
What are your favorite Panamanian dishes, some that are not related to your recipes and the ones that you like the most from your menu?
“My favorite Panamanian dishes are part of experiences that I have had, the almojabana fascinates me, wherever I see it I ask for it. Another dish that I love is Saus, which coincidentally comes from the Afro-descendant culture, tamales is another one that I really like. Rice with purple pigeon peas is another dish that fascinates me. You don’t see something that I love so much anymore, although it’s not a dish, it’s fruits, jobo and tamarind, the latter because it’s a spectacular dessert and I particularly love it when they use it in the restaurant’s cocktail bar and well… I’m a fan of jobo’s ice cream.
The dishes that I like the most, apart from the Panamanians, is the Lebanese Tabbule that my mother used to make, and that I now make, but that is one of my favorite dishes that she learned to make not being Lebanese because that family heritage comes from my dad’s side.
From our restaurant I love shredded meat (ropa vieja) croquettes on the menu, green ceviche, screwed pork rinds, a mixture of pork with spices, I think all are my favorite since were designed to be put on the menu. However, I enjoy more the faces of diners when they try a dish, or you are walking down the street and a person recognizes you and says “I was fascinated by what I ate, I loved your restaurant”.
Photos courtesy: Chef Roberto Richa/ 5inco Restaurante.
