Grasping a country’s gastronomy and its full potential requires professionals who begin developing a deep knowledge of the ingredients and spices that distinguish Panamanian recipes from an early age. For this reason, our featured guest is a chef who started out helping his mother and aunts in the kitchen during family gatherings as a child. He gained experience in fast food before finding his path alongside renowned chefs such as Fabien Mingy, Luis Mendizabal, Cuquita de Arias, and Laurent Tourondel. Today, Chef José Aparicio heads the kitchen at the renowned Kaandela restaurant in Casco Antiguo and shares his vision of Panamanian gastronomy—and its contribution to the development of national tourism—exclusively with The Visitor – El Visitante.
Panamanian cuisine has everything it takes to become an international culinary destination with a distinct identity. What would it take to elevate it to that level?
“First—and for me, most importantly—we need a united sector aligned with a shared vision. Panama is already part of the international gastronomic scene, and we have wonderful colleagues who proudly represent our cuisine.
We need to solidify a structure that positions us as a top-tier culinary destination. When we work toward a shared vision, everything else follows naturally.”
Which Panamanian dishes truly embody the country’s cultural and historical essence, and what can we do to help them transcend our borders?
“For me, there are several. They range from something as simple yet steeped in history as a torrejita de bacalao (salt cod fritter) to something as iconic and authentic as sancocho.
As professionals, we have a responsibility to know our history; today’s market demands it. Understanding the origins of our dishes is essential to conveying their true essence. We don’t need to ‘elevate’ our native cuisine; we need to learn how to communicate the significance these dishes hold within our culture.”
Panamanian gastronomy needs to look inward to find ingredients that set our culinary offerings apart. What do you consider the culinary industry’s main challenge in achieving this and showcasing Panama from a different perspective?
“We need to give greater visibility to those products. It can be a complex path, but that is precisely where the value lies. It is a challenge worth taking on because not only do we learn as chefs, but we also help rescue ingredients that have been forgotten—or, in some cases, never became widely known.
Many of those products were never viewed as possibilities for creating new recipes. Rediscovering and highlighting their value is also a way to speak about Panama, to celebrate our essence, and to tell our story through gastronomy.”
Kaandela restaurant is located in Casco Antiguo. How does this important historic district contribute to creating an immersive and diverse dining experience? What remains to be developed?
“Casco Antiguo offers a unique blend of history, architecture, culture, and gastronomy. Support from Panama City Mayor’s Office has been crucial in revitalizing this area, and I believe they have done a great job in that regard.
It is a diverse place where various culinary concepts and offerings coexist, enriching the experience for our visitors. The next step is to continue showcasing that full potential—both locally and internationally—so that more and more people discover the culinary richness Panama has to offer.”
What is Kaandela’s culinary concept, and what kind of experience does it aim to create for local and international diners?
“Kaandela is a restaurant that explores the Panamanian landscape. We undertake expeditions to various regions of the country in search of unconventional ingredients. On each trip, we learn about the culture, cuisine, and techniques that local communities have preserved for generations.
After each expedition, we research these ingredients, understand their history, and explore new ways of interpreting them using contemporary techniques. It is a challenge that keeps us constantly learning and evolving creatively.
Our goal is for diners to share in those experiences—to discover new flavors and learn the stories of the communities we visit. It is our way of telling the story of Panama with passion and authenticity.”
Tell us about the restaurant’s three most popular dishes and why they resonate so strongly with diners.
“We know exactly which dishes resonate most with our diners.
Buscando Guayaba: This is undoubtedly our signature dessert. It perfectly embodies the Kaandela concept, combining identity, a sense of place, creativity, and memory in a single dish.
Fish Crudito: The balance of acidic flavors, spicy notes, and crunchy textures makes this a very fresh, light dish full of personality. Zapato de Langosta: Much of our menu is built around non-traditional ingredients; this dish stars *arroz rojo colorado* (red rice), sourced through the work of the Toabré Foundation in El Copé. It is an extraordinary ingredient that reflects our commitment to researching and preserving Panama’s culinary heritage.”
