Panamanian gastronomy must continue to grow, and to move forward it needs new talent, chefs who have a deep passion for daring to do things differently. This is the case of Chef Leonardo Gañango, who was born in Venezuela and was influenced by his family, especially his aunt, who made empanadas and became part of Venezuela’s cultural heritage. A rising talent, at a young age, he has been involved in the opening of important restaurants in Panama alongside his mentor, Chef Avi Barack. During the recently celebrated Burger Week, his SHAISHO burger became a huge sensation, to the point that people waited in line for up to two hours outside Kokoma Specialty Coffee and Bistro restaurant to try it. This young chef, with a long and successful career ahead of him, shares his experiences and vision of gastronomy in Panama exclusively with The Visitor – El Visitante.
How do you see the development of gastronomy in Panama and how can it be strengthened as a tourist experience?
“Look, I’ve fully experienced the gastronomic growth that Panama has experienced. I arrived in 2013, and what I’ve experienced as gastronomy 11 years ago to this day is incredible. The magnificent work done by many Panamanian chefs I admire and respect, like Chef Mario Castrellon, who has been a fundamental part of gastronomic growth and has made Panama known abroad, Chef Cuquita with whom I had the honor of working with, and Chef Charlie Collins. If a country’s gastronomy evolves, so does tourism.
Gastronomy can be strengthened through tourism if more support is given to local producers, whether is vegetables and fruits, fishermen, farmers, or anyone who produces something that Panama offers today, which many people don’t know about. I think we should give a little more support to what allows the development of gastronomy, because food always goes hand in hand with everything that is culture.”
You’ve become quite famous for the SHAISHO burger during Burger Week. What’s so special about this type of food, and how can you create a completely Panamanian version?
“Famous? I think God is famous. He’s the number one celebrity in my life and in the lives of all people who believe in him, and SHAISHO goes for that because in Japanese it means “The First.” What’s different about it? It highlights Panamanian cultural diversity with a bit of Asia and China, as both have contributed greatly to the growth of gastronomy and tourism in Panama. Let me tell you that the SHAISHO, besides having many Asian flavors, has local products that make it Panamanian. It has sugarcane honey, which is Panamanian and I love, as well as vegetables produced here on this land.
To make a 100% Panamanian version of a burger, you need to have pork, chicharrón (fried por), a little carnitas, smoked with Nance wood, even the bacon itself, something truly Panamanian.”
What differences and similarities do you see in the way gastronomy develops in Panama and Venezuela?
“Look, I don’t see any differences because we come from native roots, where the indigenous people were our first settlers and enhance our gastronomy, where the hard work of agriculture was carried out by these people who fought for their lands. How wonderful it would be when you study gastronomy and the principles of a cooking module teaches you what our ancestors cooked.
They teach you many things from other parts of the world, but they never teach you Panamanian mother cuisine in this case, or Venezuelan mother cuisine, which are all one land. In Venezuela, they eat rice like in Panama, as well as beans, kidney beans, and meat. That pre-Hispanic methodology is what truly defines the culture and what speaks to us.”
Which area of Panama has the greatest potential to become a culinary destination?
“Colon has incredible culinary potential because it was also their ancestors who curated the recipes they make today. Pati reminded me of my aunt, when she used to cook fish empanadas. Trying it for the first time in Colon was incredibly emotional. How a simple cod empanada, brought back a beautiful memory, and Colon has that because mothers cook there. Other places include Chiriqui, with all its local producers, and Panama City, which is the epicenter of good gourmet restaurants, where many chefs have come to represent Panama abroad. I can’t mention just one because Panama has so many. In the case of La Chorrera with the pineapple, the best I’ve ever eaten in my entire life.”
Have you had any project ideas for the development and growth of gastronomy?
“My first life project is to open my own restaurant. I was once told I couldn’t be in the kitchen because there were culture clashes. And I think my biggest project right now is to highlight Asian culture in Panama. One, because I like their discipline. Two, I like the hard work they do. As an immigrant who has forged roots here in Panama, I feel the same way. And it’s one of the things I strive for: to ensure that local products carry the essence of Chinese culture and continue doing what we do today in Kokoma.”
