Panamanian gastronomy is more than just delicious food; it’s an inspiration that inspires more and more people to make this art an experience that leaves a lasting impression on local and foreign visitors. This inspiration has elevated our culinary offering to levels never before imagined, and has clearly allowed us to see the opportunity this industry has to contribute to the development of tourism in Panama. For this reason, our guest at Sabores is a chef who is passionate about Panamanian food, despite having lived part of his life in the United States and studied Culinary Arts in Florida. His passion for Panamanian food led him to write a book called “Fusion and Flavor,” as well as to open his own restaurant concept in shopping malls, inspired by Panamanian food but with a contemporary style, called Mercaito. This more accessible and innovative concept contributes to the potential of Panamanian gastronomy as a tourist experience, and on this occasion, Chef Francisco shares with us exclusively his vision of the industry and where it’s headed.
How gastronomy in Panama has evolved since you started until now? “
I arrived here in Panama in 2005, returning after working and studying in the United States. There wasn’t much out there about Panamanian gastronomy. Cuquita or Charlie Collins were the ones who were making waves in the Panamanian cuisine scene, and at that time, I joined in too. They started doing a lot of culinary activities, schools started up. I was also the director of the Panama International Hotel School in the culinary department, so I also had the opportunity to teach the first batches that were emerging and growing. Students like Hernan Correa, for example, came out of there, as well as many others who have truly contributed to Panamanian gastronomy. I think we’ve been raising the bar, getting better every year despite the times, despite the pandemic, despite many things, but I think today Panama has many restaurants that are already part of the ’50 Best’. We’re small, it’s a group of small chefs, but we’re working together in the same direction, each one contributing from their own trenches to all of Panama. So… I think what’s coming is much better, and with everything that’s happening this year, I think we’re going to see an even stronger rise of Panamanian gastronomy.”
What is it about our food that inspires such passion, and how can we make it an international tourist experience?
“Look, I think that living abroad, Panamanian food was something I missed a lot. Really, when I started to see this gastronomy thing or to work or to study gastronomy, I didn’t have it in my mind to do it, it wasn’t that I liked to cook as a kid, it was a little more sudden. When I arrived in the United States, I asked myself what I was going to work in? Waiter, cook, well, I’m going to the kitchen, to see what happens there and start, and then with the blows, well, we started and I said I wanted to study. An anecdote I always tell is that when I told my dad I wanted to study gastronomy, he would tell me ‘you know you’re never going to return to Panama again, because if you go to Panama you’ll be a little Indian in a hotel,’ and I told him calmly, I’m not going back to Panama, there is no gastronomy there, thank God everything was very different, I didn’t keep my word to my dad, and I returned to Panama. When I returned, I joined my grandmother and told her I want you to teach me how to make a good sancocho, how to make good tamales, and I went to the interior where my family is in Aguadulce, in a town called Jagüito. I learned to make cheese; they taught me how to do many things, and there I began to apply the techniques and decided to myself, Panamanian cuisine is my thing, because it’s also something that runs in my blood.
I’ve advised many Japanese restaurants, I’ve made sushi, I’ve done everything… if they call me to advise, I’ll make whatever restaurant they ask me for, but my specialty is Panamanian cuisine, and that’s what I’ll continue to do for the rest of my life.
In Panama, there’s a lot of opportunity, and we’re a small country, where there are many… It’s not like the United States, which is big. Here, we have people close at hand. I mean, we can reach the government, chef groups, tourist groups that visit Panama, right? We can create gastronomic routes that are already being created and support small restaurants, small street foods, so they can develop their products and we can bring tourists to them.”
What can we take as an example of what other countries are doing with gastronomy to apply it in Panama in our own way?
“If I had to give an example, it would be Peru, where chefs and the industry definitely got together to establish certain national dishes, promote them, and strengthen them. I believe there’s a lot that can be done in that segment and take it to other countries. I would like to take Panamanian cuisine outside of Panama. I mean, today, very specific things are done, but why not think about something bigger? I mean, I think Peru has become known worldwide by going beyond its own borders as well. It has made a splash nationally and has strengthened itself, but now you see Peruvian restaurants all over the world. We don’t have that yet. I would like to see one of my restaurants in the United States or Europe.”
Which Panamanian foods are most attractive to foreign visitors, and why do you think they are?
“When I talk to someone from abroad, they talk a lot about Panamanian food, and there are things they like, which can be as basic as a corn tortilla. When they try it and taste it, it has a different flavor than other countries, even ceviches, which have gradually evolved in Panama. I think that our seasoning really leaves a mark on tourists.”
Which area of Panama has the greatest potential to become a gastronomic destination par excellence?
“In Panama, there’s a very special place, and I think it’s Boquete. Our main products come from there. It’s a place that has it all: the climate, good locations, good hotels, good restaurants, and there are many very good offerings. The question is, how do we attract tourists so they come to it as a gastronomic destination?”
