To elevate Panamanian gastronomy even further, it’s important to gain a deep understanding of other, more developed culinary industries in order to create a unique and authentic process. Our distinguished guest possesses this knowledge: a chef who worked for many years in renowned restaurants in the United States with acclaimed culinary talents such as Jose Andres and Richard Sandoval. These experiences shaped his culinary style, which fuses modern techniques with local ingredients and paved the way for him to open his restaurant, Tomillo. Today, he owns several restaurants where creativity and respect for Panamanian products are the hallmarks of Chef Felipe Milanes, who shares his vision of the Panamanian gastronomic industry and how it can be strengthened with The Visitor – El Visitante.
You worked for many years as a chef in the United States. What are the differences between the U.S. and Panamanian gastronomic industries?
“The differences are quite big, especially when we talk about the industry itself. First, it’s important to understand that gastronomy encompasses many sectors: hotels, fine dining, casual dining, neighborhood restaurants, and fast food. I’m speaking from the perspective of the sector where I worked for many years in the United States, which was fine dining.
One of the biggest differences is the perceived honor of being a chef. In the United States, being a chef in a good restaurant is something to be proud of. You proudly say that you’re a chef at such-and-such restaurant. In Panama, that has been changing, but it still feels like many chefs don’t take it with the same pride, even though being a chef in any restaurant is something dignified and honorable.
In terms of culinary offerings, the United States is a gastronomic galaxy, with access to ingredients from all over the world and well-defined seasons. Panama doesn’t have that same availability, but it still boasts a very solid international selection. Regarding service, it varies greatly depending on the region in the United States. Interestingly, after more than 10 years since I returned to Panama, the service here has improved so much that it now competes head-to-head with many places there.
What strengths has Panama developed as a gastronomic destination?
“Panama’s greatest strength is its local chefs. Not only Panamanian chefs, but also foreign chefs who have adopted Panama as their home. Many young people have left, trained abroad, and returned with structure, discipline, and technique. Furthermore, Panamanians today travel much more, see things abroad, and want them in their own country. Gastronomic development goes hand in hand with the customer. Today’s Panamanian customer demands more, values more, and supports the chef. Panama has become a culinary destination, offering high-level cuisines from around the world, which has given it prestige and international recognition.”
What is the concept behind Tomillo and how does it enhance the tourist experience?
“Tomillo is a restaurant that has evolved over time. It began as a restaurant for sharing good food featuring local ingredients and today is Tomillo Steakhouse.
Currently, it’s a high-end steakhouse with a meat and fish aging program. Dining at Tomillo is a world-class experience, comparable to steakhouses in New York, Tokyo, or London. Tomillo assures tourists that Panama’s cuisine is world-class, combining local products with the finest international ingredients when the concept calls for it.”
If you could open a restaurant in the interior of Panama, where would you locate it and what would its concept be?
“I would locate it facing the sea, with a concept based on fishing and freshly prepared food. The restaurant would be called Catch, Cook & Eat. The experience would be going out to fish, bringing back the catch, and cooking it fresh. From sea to kitchen and from kitchen to plate. Panama, surrounded by two seas, has everything to offer a gastronomic experience based on adventure and fresh produce, something very attractive to tourists.”
What does Panama need to make gastronomy a tourist destination?
“Panama already has world-class cuisine. What’s needed is a clear guide for tourists: a gastronomic map that indicates where to have exceptional dining. Furthermore, Panama needs more tourists, more people visiting the country. A healthy gastronomic ecosystem needs volume, a constant flow of people, and movement. The destination already exists; now it needs direction and mass appeal.”
What are the three most popular dishes at Tomillo?
“The three most popular dishes at Tomillo are:
1. Chicharron (fried pork rinds).
2. Duck cachapas (corn pancakes) with tomato jam and Parmesan cheese.
3. The Cowboy Steak, aged and matured for 30 days.
These dishes perfectly represent the restaurant’s DNA and are constant favorites among our diners.”
